The Science Behind White Cast and Sunscreen Inclusivity with AJ Addae
5/14/202641 min
In this episode of Skin Anarchy, award-winning cosmetic chemist and clinical researcher AJ Addae joins Dr. Ekta Yadav for a science-driven conversation that challenges one of skincare’s biggest blind spots: why sunscreen still fails so many consumers—especially those with deeper skin tones. What unfolds is a deeper look at formulation chemistry, particle optics, and the gap between sunscreen marketing and how these products actually perform on real skin.
AJ shares how her own experiences growing up as a dark-skinned daughter of immigrants shaped her relationship with beauty and science. Long before becoming a cosmetic chemist, she was already questioning why products weren’t designed with melanin-rich skin in mind. That curiosity eventually led her into formulation science, where she began investigating the physical behavior of mineral UV filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
A central focus of the episode is the science behind white cast. Rather than treating inclusivity as a marketing issue, AJ explains how particle aggregation, light scattering, and suspension stability directly influence how sunscreen appears on the skin. Her research into specialized zinc oxide “tetrapod” structures reveals how changing particle shape—not just adding tint—may significantly improve wearability across skin tones while maintaining UV protection.
The conversation also dives into the limitations of SPF testing, the misunderstanding of hyperpigmentation, and why aggressive skincare often worsens long-term skin health instead of improving it. Throughout the episode, AJ advocates for a more rigorous, transparent, and evidence-driven future for cosmetic chemistry.
Listen to the full episode to hear AJ Addae break down the science of sunscreen, inclusivity, and why meaningful beauty innovation starts in the lab—not in marketing.
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Clips
Transcript preview
First 90 secondsEkta Yadav· Host0:00
Hey, guys. Welcome back to Skin Anarchy. This is a very, very special episode. We are going to be learning a lot today, and especially in the realm of sunscreen and understanding why things are not inclusive in the sunscreen space, and how do we make them inclusive. So our guest today is a true expert in this field. She is an innovator. She is a trailblazer, and I am so honored to host her. So please welcome, uh, Eji Ade, who's an award-winning cosmetic chemist and clinical researcher, and now soon to be Dr. Ade. So welcome, Eji.
AJ Addae· Guest0:28
Oh my goodness. Thank you for that introduction. Like, I'm flattered.
Ekta Yadav· Host0:32
[laughs] Oh, no, it doesn't do you justice. Please, I, I was, like, really brief with that, you know?
AJ Addae· Guest0:37
Yeah.
Ekta Yadav· Host0:37
But I could, I could rave about you for hours. I mean, you're so impressive. I want you to tell your story because I don't wanna miss anything. I want you to tell us about what got you into science. Like, h- honestly, I really wanna know, like, where did you real- when did you realize in your life, "I wanna do chemistry. I wanna go into science"?
AJ Addae· Guest0:53
Okay.
Ekta Yadav· Host0:54
Walk us through that journey.
AJ Addae· Guest0:54
Okay, so I'm glad that your question is what got you into science and not necessarily what got you into beauty because I, I've worked in cosmetic science labs where there's men, right? No one ever asks them, like, "What got you into beauty," right? Like, they see- Mm-hmm ... them as scientists, and that, and that's kind of the, the lens that I think I approach this from. Love beauty, though. I think I've always had, ever since I was little, like, kind of a love-hate relationship with beauty where I liked the idea of, you know, cosmetics and everything like that, but I think it came from a perspective of I'm a darker skinned woman. I have very, like, kinky coily hair. You know, there, there are these things that you grow up with