Loewe’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez On Their First Menswear Collection and the Loewe Craft Prize
5/12/202646 min
It’s been one year since Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez moved to Paris to take on the role of creative director at the craft-focused brand Loewe, and the duo is still adjusting to their new life in the City of Lights. “I'd hardly call us Parisians,” McCollough said. “We've got a lot of work to do with our French.”
Linguistic obstacles aside, the pair has already made a big impression with their first two collections, which Hernandez sums up as “taking those codes of American sportswear—like the T-shirt, the jean, the bomber jacket—and then putting them through the filter of high craft, specifically leathercraft.” They’ve swiftly established principles for their tenure: poppy colors, trompe l’oeil fabric innovations, and sleek silhouettes that marry their American point of view to Loewe's technical capabilities.
McCollough and Hernandez made their names two decades ago with their line Proenza Schouler, which helped shape the downtown cool-girl uniform of the era: casual yet elevated, arty without being pretentious. They were very much a part of the fabric of New York’s fashion scene, so it was something of a shock when it was announced that they would decamp to Paris for this new adventure. Still, they’ve taken the challenge head-on, adding a jolt of American ease and fun to the brand.
The pair discuss the Loewe Craft Prize, now in its 10th year. The program, run through Loewe’s non-profit arm, seeks to elevate craftspeople from various disciplines and has been an eye-opening initiative for the pair to take part in.
“It's just so nice to be working at a company that celebrates this kind of thing,” Hernandez said. “I think it's quite rare these days. So it's been very fulfilling.”
The Run-Through with Vogue is your go-to podcast where fashion meets culture. Hosted by Chloe Malle, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue U.S.; Chioma Nnadi, Head of British Vogue; and Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway, each episode features the latest fashion news and exclusive designer and celebrity interviews.
Learn about your ad choices: dovetail.prx.org/ad-choices
Clips
Transcript preview
First 90 secondsNicole Phelps· Host0:00
[upbeat music] This is "The Run-Through." I'm Nicole Phelps. Today, I have Loewe creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez with me in the studio. I've known these two for more than 20 years, and I'm so excited that they joined me for the podcast. We talk about the Loewe Craft Prize, the winners of which were announced today, what they wanna do long term at the brand, and how they're approaching the first menswear collection of their career. Thank you for joining me.
Lazaro Hernandez· Guest0:34
Yeah.
Jack McCollough· Guest0:34
Yeah.
Nicole Phelps· Host0:34
Welcome, Jack.
Lazaro Hernandez· Guest0:35
Thank you.
Nicole Phelps· Host0:35
Welcome, Lazaro.
Jack McCollough· Guest0:36
Thanks for having us.
Nicole Phelps· Host0:37
You just arrived in New York City from Paris- Mm-hmm ... last night, so you're a little jet-lagged, and I thank you very much for joining. How does it feel to come back? You've been in Paris for a full year now?
Lazaro Hernandez· Guest0:49
Yeah. We moved there last April, so it'll be a year next month. Um, and we haven't been back as much as we thought we were gonna be back. We came back for the first time last summer in August for a bit. I mean, beautiful, the one-month off thing.
Jack McCollough· Guest1:02
I know. One of the, one of the perks of living in Europe is that one month off. I don't think we had ever had more than 10 days off, really- Yeah ... our entire career here in New York, so that's definitely one of the perks.
Lazaro Hernandez· Guest1:12
So we did August in New York, and then we came back for Christmas, and now that's it. This is our third time.
Nicole Phelps· Host1:18
How does it feel to become a Parisian? What is life like in Paris for you?
Jack McCollough· Guest1:23
I mean, I'd hardly call us Parisians. We've got a lot of work to do with our, our French. Um,